Homecoming: A Guide to Sheffield
Thoughts on going home, navigating change . . . and where to get a good haircut.
Click your heels together three times
For a long time, the most persistent idea I had for this blog was to write about moving back to my hometown, Sheffield, after seventeen years of living in London. Like countless others before me who’ve made a similar move, I found that I had all sorts of complex thoughts and big feelings about coming home, and I felt sure I would have some profound and original insights to share once I was properly settled in and got around to putting pen to paper.
I can now admit that during this period, I was undoubtedly influenced by my penchant for a particular genre of romantic novel in which the plucky heroine temporarily loses her pluck and then returns to her charming hometown in order to find it again. So as I drafted this piece in my head, I didn’t skimp on the poetic reflections about reconnecting with your roots and finding yourself (and your pluck) in all the old familiar places. I was also wedded to an entirely incongruous mental image of me sipping iced tea on a wraparound porch – a staple of the aforementioned genre, but not entirely suited to a Victorian terrace in the north of England.
Anyway, as I navigated my new life – my real new life, not the Hallmark-movie version – and waited to feel ‘settled’, I kept bumping up against a disconcerting truth. The city I had been so nostalgic about had dared to change in the time I’d been away. And so had I. I might have been Made in Sheffield (TM), but I had been shaped as an adult by another city. The other city. And it’s fair to say that leaving London comes with its own special set of emotions. (Tired of life? Not quite, Sam, but certainly tired of something.)
It’s a peculiar sensation to feel at once entirely at home – to know in your bones that you are where you belong – and at the same time, ever-so-slightly . . . out of place. But after some soul searching and a few false starts, I began to understand that the ‘new me’ and the ‘old me’ had to try to find a way to co-exist in our new/old home. For me, that has meant trying not to be overreliant on the comforting and familiar; taking the time to explore the city as I would if I had moved somewhere entirely new. Sometimes, it has meant putting on my bravest face to venture on my own into new places to meet new people.
You can go home again
I’ve now been back in Sheffield for nearly two years and I’m happy to report that that initial dissonance has (mostly) begun to fade into memory. And I’ve (mostly) stopped obsessively reading books about plucky heroines and iced tea. And so, when I finally sat down to write this piece I’ve been thinking about for over a year, I found that it didn’t feel quite so urgent anymore. Sometimes you have to live it before you can write it, and then when you come to write it, the moment’s passed.
So, instead, I’m going to dedicate this post to some of the discoveries I’ve made as I’ve got to know Sheffield again. It’s been so lovely to find that many of the places that I’ve carried in my memory all these years are still going strong, and perhaps one day I’ll write a post all about them, but here I want to celebrate what’s new – to me – in the city, and some of the people, places and beautiful Sheffield-made products that have made it feel like home again.
This is not an exhaustive guide to the city – it’s very much a reflection of my personal interests and the places I’ve prioritised visiting. In fact, the very act of thinking about and choosing what to include in this piece has made it clear to me how much I still have to explore. I’ve yet to visit South Street Kitchen or the area around Park Hill. I haven’t been to Picture House Social, and I’ve barely scratched the surface of all the cool stuff down at Kelham Island. So, let this post be a reminder to me to stay curious, keep exploring, and write a follow-up sometime soon…
In the meantime, I hope Sheffielders old, new and new/old find something to tickle their fancy below.
I couldn’t have put it better myself
Health and beauty
Emelya was pretty much my first new Sheffield discovery, after Googling ‘cool Sheffield hairdressers’ (lol) and taking a chance on the salon that came up first in the results. And what a result. Emelya is a fantastic and truly creative stylist – she can do wild things with colour, cut you a trendy 70’s shag, or – in my case – make unruly curls somewhat ruly again. She’s also warm, incredibly funny and has hands-down the best hairdresser chat in the biz.
Lauren Eaton @ The Nook
Through Emelya, I found Lauren. Lauren is the only person I would trust with my brows, such is my fear of ending up with something either nineties-skinny or terrifyingly Scouse. Lauren specialises in a natural, fluffy look but really listens to what you want and does all sorts of clever things to plot out the perfect eyebrow shape for your face. My tweezers have gone into happy retirement now Lauren’s on the case.
I think I came across Aimee’s online yoga classes during the first lockdown, when I was stuck in London after my move to Sheffield was put on hold. I guess I was trying to will myself here by practising with local teachers from afar. When I finally did get here, and IRL classes were allowed again, I knew Aimee was the teacher for me. She teaches a creative, embodied practice, and there’s such a lovely, generous atmosphere in her class that you don’t feel at all self-conscious attempting the more ambitious postures. Aimee’s also an excellent masseuse and brings elements of that into her teaching, along with gorgeous essential-oil blends that she makes herself and, often, a perfectly apt poem during savasana.
The only photograph of me in a yoga class I’m willing to post online
Books
What a little gem! La Biblioteka is a small, independent book and magazine shop, nestled into the corner of the Kommune food hall. Owner Alex curates a thoughtful selection of contemporary fiction and non-fiction, always with an eye to stories that might be harder to find in Waterstones. But if you want a copy of the latest book that everyone’s talking about, chances are you’ll find that too – and they can order it in for you if it’s not in stock. There’s also a great array of fancy magazines (the ones that look more like coffee-table books) and covetable bits of stationery.
The new kids on the block. Juno Books is an intersectional feminist and queer bookshop, which recently opened online. Founders Rosie and Sarah came up with the idea over a lockdown-garden-wine chat and then actually saw it through, which is more than I’ve ever done with any of the ‘great ideas’ I’ve had in similar circumstances. At the moment, you can order books – ‘predominantly written by, for or about women and other marginalised folk’ from their website, or join them at one of their online or in-person book clubs – details of which are shared on their Instagram.
Juno Books’ May and June (oh) bookclub picks
This is a bit of a cheat (OK, a massive cheat) because Off the Shelf is not exactly new – in fact, last year it celebrated its 30th anniversary, which means it was certainly a thing when I lived here the first time around. But somehow I’d never been before, so it was new to me. And until Sheffield gets a few more interesting bookshops to recommend, I’m allowing myself a pass on this one. Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed all the events I attended last year – from Bernardine Evaristo in the Crucible to an evening of readings celebrating local independent publisher And Other Stories’ 10th birthday. But my absolute favourite was a talk by Desiree Reynolds, writer-in-residence at the Sheffield Archives, about her powerful Dig Where You Stand project.
Artists
I came across Luiza’s work on Etsy in 2020, when I was looking for Christmas cards made by local artists. Luiza had produced a card which depicted two women hugging in the snow and it so beautifully summed up how many of us were feeling that first Covid Christmas, when seeing our friends and family – let alone hugging them – still felt like a distant dream. I bought several packs, wrote soppy messages in them, and sent them to my friends. Since then I’ve become something of a Luiza aficionado, and have several of her pieces around my house. I love how her seemingly simple still lives capture little moments of quiet domestic joy.
Luiza’s lemons on my new kitchen shelf
I can’t remember how I came across John’s work, except that it was – inevitably – on Instagram. I do know I was immediately struck by his bold graphic woodcuts and the subversive messages hidden (or not so hidden) in his prints. I quickly snapped up a piece called ‘Square Peg’ – ‘proving beyond all reasonable doubt that you can put a square peg in a round hole’. Its arrival was delayed (this was very much still in ‘Covid disruption’ times) and when it did pop through my letterbox, I was so touched to discover that John had included an artist’s proof of his NHS tribute ‘Miracle Worker’, as a very kind but entirely unnecessary apology for the wait. Thank you, John!
I became aware of Lianne’s beautiful work when she had an exhibition at the Yorkshire Artspace last year. I’m a sucker for florals and I think her ‘In a Vase’ studies are just so lovely. The delicate flowers – poppies, cow parsley, daffodils – against a deep blue background feel classic but still modern and fresh – I dream of having one of her larger originals on the wall… one day.
Events
Sisterhood Social is all about ‘bringing women together to celebrate, share, inspire and support’, and it was one of the first events I took myself along to when the world started opening up again last year. The idea is that we ‘gather and feast’ together and listen to stories shared by a diverse line-up of always-inspiring women. It’s always nerve-wracking walking into an event on your own, but I needn’t have worried – Sisterhood Social is such a warm and welcoming space and both times I’ve been I’ve ended up meeting and chatting with some really friendly and interesting women. Fingers crossed there’s another one soon!
I spy my denim jacket at Sisterhood Social
I’m such a fan of the Endless Love Creative craft markets – and, in fact, everything that founder Charlotte is doing to celebrate and support amazing makers from Sheffield and beyond. The markets, which take place in the Workstation on Paternoster Row, have such an interesting and diverse range of stallholders – from printmakers and ceramicists to candlemakers and jewellers. There’s never that feeling that you’re seeing things you’ve seen a million times before. And ELC is more than just markets – there are regular life drawing classes at Union St and a book club.
I am not what you would call green-fingered, but I do like pretty flowers. So Bloom’s ‘community flower garden for women and girls’ is right up my street. They host regular open days where even the horticulturally incompetent can get involved – I spent a very pleasant afternoon sowing some seeds, drinking tea and chatting to the other volunteers, while braver souls took on slightly more complex tasks. The Bloom team can also often be found selling glorious bouquets around Sheffield, and also run various flowery workshops where you can learn to make flower crowns, bouquets and festive wreaths.
Drinks
Bench is the place to take any visitors from that there London who might still be harbouring any ‘grim up north’ misconceptions. It’s a chic but unpretentious bar and restaurant, tucked away in a leafy corner of Nether Edge and with a cute outdoor terrace for sunny days. For a drink date, they have a fantastic selection of wine and cocktails and a tiny but tasty small-plate menu, all served on locally made Grey Suit Clay plates. There’s also a lunch and dinner (by which I mean dinner and tea) menu, available Wednesday–Sunday, which I’m dying to try.
An orange wine, if you please, at Bench
When I went out in Sheffield as a youth (mere moments ago, surely), it genuinely felt like there was a sort of no-mans-land between the bars in town where we’d start our nights out and the Leadmill, where we’d inevitably end them. I was never entirely sure how we made it from The Forum down to da club, and if you’d asked me to navigate the same route in daylight, I’m not sure I could have done it. (Although I do have a notoriously bad sense of direction, even when not fuelled by £1 Malibu and lemonades.) Anyway, it’s been such a pleasant surprise to find that *coughs* years later, there are all sorts of interesting places filling in that gappy bit in my mental map of the city – and Sidney & Matilda is definitely one of them. They describe themselves as a ‘Brooklyn meets Berlin’ bar and music venue, and the exposed brick, graffiti, festoon lights, loud music and craft beers certainly tick most of the required boxes on that score. During the ‘outside drinking’ stage of Covid, their courtyard was a fun place to meet friends, and although I will admit I haven’t actually been to a gig there, it doesn’t feel so intimidatingly cool that I’d be scared to. (This is, after all, Sheffield and not actual Berlin.)
I think Dead Donkey might be a strong contender for the neighbourhood bar of my dreams, even if it’s not technically in my neighbourhood. It nails that sort of relaxed, friendly drinking spot that they’re so good at in Europe and the US but which we Brits are strangely inept at. Not a pub, not a glam ‘night out’ bar, just a cosy place to have a leisurely beer or a glass of wine with a pal. Comfy, with stylish but unpretentious decor (they avoid that ‘we went to a charity shop and bought a bunch of random stuff to make our bar look “eclectic”’ vibe – one of my pet peeves ), a simple menu of delicious cheese toasties (excellent Croque Monsieur) and a good selection of wines, cocktails and beers.
*hums Cheers theme*
Eats
I always remember Tamper being recommended to me by friends who briefly lived in Sheffield during the period when I was in London. Well-travelled, discerning friends, who know good coffee when they drink it. So it was high up on my list of places to try when I got here, and I wasn’t disappointed. In fact, Tamper is pretty much number 1 on my ‘Londoner list’ – the place I take recent arrivals to the station for a tasty brunch and to prove that good avocado on toast exists outside the M25. It’s always buzzy (so always worth booking), reliably tasty and has a great outdoor space.
Iced coffee and ruby slippers to go, please
Tonco is tucked away in a corner of Dyson Place, off Sharrowvale Road – next door to Emelya and Lauren at The Nook. It’s a cosy, relaxed restaurant with a sweet terrace, overlooking the various eateries and shops that surround Dyson Place’s central courtyard. The small, thoughtfully curated menu changes regularly, depending on the availability of seasonal ingredients. Marina O’Loughlin recently gave it a rave in The Times (‘sounds like madness, tastes like genius’) which ought to impress any out-of-town friends, but I can also recommend it as a great spot for solo dining, if that floats your boat. I treated myself to a decadent, and delicious, lunch there not so long ago.
Finding a good local pizza restaurant was a priority for me, having been particularly well served in that department back in London. Luckily, there were several excellent choices already available for delivery when I arrived in Sheffield. Proove and Nether Edge Pizza are fantastic, but newcomer Paesani has since claimed the top spot. Great service, delicious wood-fired bases with simple toppings that priortise quality, authentic ingredients, and all within easy walking distance of my front door. I’ll always fondly remember perching awkwardly on a bar stool outside their window last summer, sipping an Aperol Spritz and waiting for my pizza to be cooked.
Paesani garden pizza party
Sheffield Made
I’m a real magpie for beautiful homey things and a particular fiend for pottery, so I’ve been delighted to discover that Sheffield is a veritable hotbed of ceramic talent. Check out Carla Murdoch (as featured on Glasette) and Pottery West, who have a gorgeous collaboration with fancy bedlinen company Piglet in Bed, if you’re similarly inclined. But I’m giving over this space to Francesca Hague’s Grey Suit Clay (as seen at Bench) because one of her beautiful pieces takes pride of place on my mantlepiece and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about the large Dalmatian-print vase I saw in her studio well over a year ago…
Grey Suit Clay vase + poppies by The Paper Project (alas not Sheffield-made)
My love for pottery is only equalled by my love of candles. Particularly bougie handmade candles in beautiful packaging. Enter Lit, a local company making richly scented candles in chic packaging, using sustainable ingredients. Tick, tick, tick. I’ve currently got Geranium, Coriander and Sweet Orange on the go (so nice) and I’m after Black Pepper, Rosemary and Cedarwood next. They also do a nifty subscription service, which would make for a lovely gift, and you can order a pack of the various scents in tealight form if you aren’t sure which one to go for.
Sticking to the fragranced theme, I wanted to end with a shout-out for Abbey Perfumery. It’s often quite easy to find local candlemakers (Lit is just one of many in Sheffield) but rarer to find a good perfumier, so I’m really pleased to have come across Abbey while browsing in one of my favourite local shops, Small Plants. All the fragrances are vegan, cruelty-free and handmade in Sheffield, and I was really impressed by the interesting, complex fragrances in the range. I bought Green Island (grapefruit, mandarin, patchouli and tobacco) for my mum for Christmas, and I’m very keen on the jasmine-infused May Flower scent myself.
Do you even live in Sheffield if you don’t have a version of this photo in your camera roll?
Honourable mentions
As I said at the beginning, this list is only a snapshot of two years back in my old stomping ground and I know there’s so much more I could add – and so much more yet to discover. But I particularly wanted to mention, before signing off, the Union St co-working space, which provided a much-needed injection of routine and community when lockdown first ended, and – of course – The Writers Workshop, where I found my tribe of writers, editors, readers and friends.
Here’s to all the lovely, friendly people (it’s true what they say about the north, you know) who’ve made these nearly two years so special. Sheffield has always been my home – and now I am at home here.
~
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